3 must-eat dishes in Exmouth
It's not up for debate- the best dish in Exmouth is self-caught coral, trout cooked over the campfire, after a sunburnt day on the boat- things simply taste sweeter when they're hard to get. It's a sacred act; eating delicate flesh under the star-lit skies of remote Western Australia, using salty fish-scaled fingers to pull flaky fillets apart. Leave your sauce at home, the only addition you need is lemon, butter and a fucking good Riesling- I recommend WA's Alkoomi Estate, Franklin River Estate or branch out and go German (look for 'trocken' on the label to make sure it's a dry style).
note; Good wine is hard to find in Exmouth, the local selection is almost nonexistent. If you want premium, you will need to bring your own.
Situated a long thirteen-hour drive north of Perth, Exmouth is the front door to the World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Marine Park and is a central point for 4x4 adventurers, serious fishermen and watermen exploring the surrounding reefs. Its beauty is that of a rugged-cave-man. Red dirt, red sunsets, red dusted spinifex and enough termite mounds to make you wonder who will replace us at the top of the animal kingdom. The town is flushed with Margaret River locals taking refuge from the cold winter waves, young couples on a once-in-a-lifetime 'troopy-with-a-kelpy' lap of Australia and golden-brown empty-beach-seeking travellers from across the pond.
Take a dive to find the town's true beauty and allure. It lies amongst the coral heads, beside the submarines, listening to the tinking of the reef.
The dining 'scene' is small, behind the city times and beautifully what you would expect from a remote, seasonal and weather-dependent destination; small and in need of a few wrong ventures to find the treasures. A challenging area to run a restaurant.... especially after covid's evil rath. In my short week-long stay in town, there were 3 dishes that stood out like the red wine stains on a white dress.
3 must-try dishes to hunt down when you visit Exmouth.
1) Garlic-butter prawns from the Beach Shack
Set a bee's dick away from the ocean's edge you might wonder how the Beach Shak doesn’t get washed away on big tides. Specked with large ropes, buoys and other Nordic bits-and-pieces living out their second life (on the land this time), Sun, salt and wind-worn tables- the Beach Shack wears a casual pirate-wants-a-wife vibe.
Finally, some fresh seafood is on the menu!! Whole prawns, skins left on, cooked from raw and tossed with garlic butter and spring onion. They come served in the classic metal bucket ready to peal and eat with your hands.
Once the prawns are completed, at the bottom of the tin, is a sexy, buttery-garlic seafood goodness- Some bread to mop it would have been life-changing.
2) Rosie's chicken burger from the Ningaloo Bakehouse & Cafe (yes. Rosie's)
A right of passage upon arrival, you will find this romantic-looking hot box located inside the local bakery. It’s a big call, but this could be Western Australia's most iconic regional burger. It definitely has a large gang-like mob of followers.
The Toyota Camry of burgers. No nonsense, reliable and gets you from A to B every time. The fried, moist chicken sits just outside the edges of the bun on both sides (as it should), with crunchy lettuce and a soft bun that leaves finger imprints as you go. Guaranteed to leave you grinning.
And If you're not feeling a burger the bakery also has a great selection of classic well-made pies, typical old-school sweets and grab-and-go's including a Bahn Me and Cesar wrap.
3) Gelato from Sweet Ningaloo
Winter in Exmouth is a consistent 30 degrees.
Mornings are crisp, skies are clear and the sun's sweaty-pink face doesn’t rise until seven, forcing you to take a daily undeserved-yet-so-enjoyed sleep in. Summer is hotter. Burn your nipples off- scramble your eggs on the ash felt and don’t look at the aircon bill hot. Regular gelatos are a must in these conditions- Eat quickly though, no one wants to see you crying, standing over a melted cone.
For all your frozen needs, tucked down an alleyway, in the hub of town, is Sweet Ningaloo Geletaria. They have an ever-changing calendar of flavours to choose from that will tickle even the most unique fetishes. My suggestions? The Mango sorbet, Biscotti or mint-chock-chip.
You can thank me later for escorting you back to child-like-giddiness, summer school holidays and evenings in Italy.